Mountain Lakes Region
A Tapestry of Mountains, Mills, and Memories...
South Carolina's Upcountry

Northwest South Carolina -- the area including modern
day Anderson, Oconee, and Pickens Counties -- offers a rich variety
of experiences to visitors interested in history, recreation, antiques
and crafts, and splendid natural vistas.

Table Rock. |
If this region were a piece of the fabric produced
by local textile mills, each strand would contribute its unique
quality to a cloth of strength, beauty, and durability. For that
is the area itself: combining the loveliness of wild mountains and
rushing waters; a history spanning the last stand of South Carolina
Cherokees and new settlers' enduring hopes and dreams; and an economy
that began in hard-working family farms, grist mills, and cotton
and led to the new South's manufacturing and modern commerce.
In short, this area provides a complex, living tapestry
of the South Carolina experience: a deftly woven fabric of mountains,
mills, and memories.
Threads of History
The lower Blue Ridge Range that extends into this area enchanted
the first inhabitants centuries ago -- and they left their stamp
upon the land and waters in stirring Native American place names:
Oconee, Seneca, Keowee, Tamassee, Tokeena, Chauga, Chattooga, Oolenoy,
Issaqueena... .

Golden Creek Mill. |
The Cherokee were a presence in upper South Carolina
(or "the Upcountry") until fairly late. As growth in lower South
Carolina pushed the Cherokee boundary further north, they made their
last stronghold in the Upcountry following the Cherokee War (1759-61).
Increasing Scots-Irish and other migration from the
northern U.S. further pressured the Cherokees' holdings. One story
says that a canny Scot traded Cherokee Chief Woolenoy a single pony
for half of his valley (now Oolenoy) -- along with hunting and fishing
rights.
The Cherokees' alliance with the British during the
Revolutionary War spelled their end. On August 1, 1776, Andrew Williamson,
Andrew Pickens and Robert Anderson led a raid that destroyed the
Cherokee town of Essenneca (Seneca), and patriots continued to burn
the crops and villages of the British allies. Eleven days later,
Pickens participated in the "Ring Fight," so known for the circular
defense he designed to hold off Cherokee attackers, until his brother
Joseph arrived with patriot reinforcements.
By the Treaty of DeWitt's Corner, in 1777, the Cherokees
had ceded their remaining land except for an area largely bounded
by Sumter National Forest. Finally, in 1817, they left forever what
had become the state of South Carolina. Oconee Station and the neighboring
William Richards House stand as reminders of this early period.
Early Economy
With European settlement, farming became the backbone of the economy,
supported by small industry such as sawmills, gristmills and other
businesses. While a number of larger farmers were slave owners,
the area's cotton-based agriculture was shaped more by the yeoman
farmer than by the plantation system popular in the lower part of
the state. In fact, the Civil War era saw real political differences
between the Upcountry and the Lowcountry, based partly on the varying
economic dependence on slavery.
But blood runs deep, and links to the Lowcountry remain
in nearby antebellum homes such as Ashtabula and Woodburn, built
by Charleston-area families seeking relief from the malarial fevers
of coastal summers.
John C. Calhoun (1782-1850) was South Carolina's premier
nineteenth-century statesman-as well as a farmer. Today, Calhoun's
house and 1100-acre farm, Fort Hill, form the spine of Clemson University's
campus. There visitors can get a sense of the spirit of the house
he loved, and a glimpse of an era evoked by the Calhoun and Clemson
families' belongings.
Early African Americans left their mark in the labor
they provided to local agriculture; after the Civil War, some freedmen
remained in the area to become independent farmers themselves. "Little
Liberia," near Pumpkintown in the Oolenoy Valley, is one such freedmen's
settlement, though now nearly deserted.

Station Falls. |
Industrialization
For decades after the Civil War, cotton continued as the region's
primary cash crop. Cotton mills and industrialization fueled a growing
cash economy. Just as earlier towns had been named for statesmen
and soldiers such as Pickens and Anderson, now places were named
for industrialists and business people -- Norris, Easley, Pelzer,
Belton, and Williamston.
Today this increasingly diverse region measures its
worth in people and its wealth in a broad range of enterprises and
industries. Honoring its heritage in memory, and shaping its future
in thoughtful action, northwest South Carolina's legacy includes
beautiful natural scenery, exciting outdoor activities, history-haunted
places, and regionally distinctive food, shops, galleries, and entertainment.
In the words of Ben Robertson, a native son and noted
journalist tragically killed in WWII: "Someone is always keeping
the home place.... And no matter how seldom or unexpectedly we may
come in, we know someone will rise to give us our welcome." In other
words, this tapestry of mountains, mills, and memories endures.
Mountains...
"The hills were eternal. Always they gave us strength...."
Thickets of rhododendron and mountain laurel, vistas
that recede in blue and purple waves, waterfalls shimmering like
angel hair against granite crags, rivers spilling silverly into
bottomless lakes, narrow trails opening up to views of time-forgotten
valleys... .
William Bartram (1739-1823) was one of the first Europeans
to walk the wilderness of this area, and a gracious plenty of natural
beauty and recreation remains as a heritage for modern explorers
to enjoy. The Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (SC 11) provides
access to lovely views and nearby sites of interest, including two
of the highest points in the state: Sassafras Mountain and Table
Rock.
Sightseeing, camping, hiking, horseback riding, fishing
and other pursuits for all ages and activity levels can be enjoyed
in Sumter National Forest and the plentiful state parks. These include:
Table Rock, with its National Recreation Trail; Keowee-Toxaway and
its Cherokee museum; Oconee (one end of the 85-mile Foothills Hiking
Trail); Devil's Fork; Sadler's Creek; and Lake Hartwell.
Waterfalls decorate the landscape, the most notable
of them Whitewater, the highest series of falls in the eastern U.S.;
and Issaqueena, linked to a Cherokee legend. Boating and fishing
enthusiasts can seek out Lakes Hartwell, Jocassee, and Keowee in
addition to area rivers. The Chattooga National Wild and Scenic
River, with guided raft tours, is famed for its whitewater thrills.
The South Carolina Botanical Garden at Clemson University,
a 270-acre cultivated natural wonder, grows thousands of native,
rare, and endangered plants, and boasts the only nature-based sculpture
collection of its kind in the country. Its Geology Museum features a collection
of minerals, fossils and gems from around the world and helps interpret
the origin and significance of the region's natural landscape.
Mills...
"[Cotton] fields blossomed like islands in the South Seas...."
Lumber and shingle mills, grist mills, textile mills:
Mills of all sorts have driven this region's economy.
Harnessing widely available water power, grist mills
ground grain for local farmers, producing staples such as cornmeal,
flour, and grits. The miller retained a portion of the product ("the
miller's tithe") to use himself or sell. Such mills reflected the
region's early economy, which was independent, self-sustaining,
and based on the family farm.
A few of these grist mills survive in renovated or
reconstructed form. Built c. 1825, Hagood Mill in Pickens boasts
many of its original components. Easley's Golden Creek Mill not
only still operates but also houses a museum.
The introduction of another kind of mill -- the industrial
or textile -- sparked the exodus from the farm and agriculture-based
economy. Powered by water-produced electricity, these mills transformed
the region's face, peppering the landscape with huge brick and stone
buildings and the little mill villages that clustered about them
like chicks around a hen.
The town of LaFrance, near Pendleton, is the site
of Pendleton Factory, this area's first textile mill and the oldest
continuously operating mill in the state.
While textile manufacturing is no longer king, the
mill villages that provided housing and other amenities to workers
fresh off the farm still remind us of its legacy. These villages
have a distinctive architectural heritage, and at least one, Newry,
is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It and other
mill towns such as Pelzer provide snapshots of a life that seems
frozen in time, when the mill was the heart of the community, shaping
the lives of generations.

Lake Hartwell. |
Memories...
"[It is] a country of deep dark pools, of the soaring spirit, of
little rooms stored with apples...."
A region's history is an intricate web woven of the
lives and memories of the people who lived there. Many vestiges
of this area's heritage remain in its historic buildings, churchyards
and museums. The diversity of the area's heritage is honored by
such sites and activities as Keowee-Toxaway State Park's Cherokee
Indian Interpretive Center and Pendleton's African American Heritage
Walking Tour.
In an astonishing array of festivals, local people
celebrate everything from clogging to pig pickin', from spring flowers
to fall apples. There's even a festival that interprets backwoods
life and craft during the Revolutionary period. The arts are celebrated
and practiced, too, in local theaters, auditoriums, museums, galleries,
and special events.
Visitors can become a part of northwest South Carolina's
tapestry by making their own lasting memories...of watching water
rush over the wheel of a working gristmill... of seeing the mist
burn off an emerging mountain vista...of visiting places that bring
the past to life.... And, best of all, of experiencing the heart
of a region in the smiling faces and welcoming hands of its people.
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